Chapter Five
Dallas to Antigua, Guatemala
Having purchased a Spanish phrase book, a dictionary, as well as a book on Spanish grammar, I drove to the Mexican border and entered the country that, unbeknown to me at the time, was to have a strong impact on my life a little later on!
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After driving for three days towards the south, along the
coastal plain of the east coast of Mexico, I arrived at Tamazunchale located at
the foot of the Sierra Oriental Mountains. The road crosses the Moctezuma River
here and twists and winds its way continuously upwards through lush tropical
terrain and fertile valleys dotted with little villages until it reaches the
Central Plateau, on which Mexico City is located. Initially overwhelmed by the
size of Mexico City and by the pollution in the air, I eventually learnt how to
relax in this awesome city, especially once I had met some of the Mexican
people. Whilst renewing my Australian passport I met a young lady who introduced
me to an owner of a Mexican model agency. Before long, I was working again as an
international model. These extra finances were most convenient further along the
journey especially when I had to pay for the passage across to South America
from Panama .Mexico City has a unique history. In 1325 the Aztecs built a
city on an island in Lake Texcoco called Tenochtitlan. Magnificent temples and
palaces were constructed around a central plaza. Canals were cut throughout the
island enabling produce and animals to be brought to market. Merchants and
soldiers travelled the land in quest of tribute and sacrificial victims. Its
period of domination being only brief, nevertheless the Aztec culture
represented Meso-America's final display of brilliance, destroyed abruptly with
the approach of Hernan Cortez and his conquistadors in 1519.Just twenty three kilometres from the city were the imposing
ruins of another of Mexico's splendid historical sights, Teotihuacan. The
Pyramid of the Sun is possibly the largest man made structure in Meso-America.
Located nearby lies the Pyramid of the Moon. Both overlook a long avenue lined
with dozens of smaller temples. Constructed about 100 AD as a planned city
during a blooming period in Meso-American culture, it fell about 750 AD, perhaps
by marauding tribesman. Reverberations were felt throughout Meso-America, as
many other cultures died out at about this time, including the Mayans of
Yucatan..jpg)
Travelling through the Yucatan Peninsula, I was most
impressed with the Mayan ruins that I encountered there. In particular the
imposing ruins of Tikal, Guatemala. Set in dense steamy tropical jungle far from
other centres of civilisation, these monumental temples had steep steps leading
up to stone altars, where priests practised their culture, including
bloodletting and human sacrifice. Other ruins in Yucatan that have become
increasingly popular for travellers to visit are Palenque, Uxmal, Chichen Itza
and Tulum. Each of these city centres had strikingly grandiose temples
commanding awe-inspiring views over their controlled regions. Tulum, being the
only Mayan ruin situated on sea cliffs, had a spectacular panoramic vista over
the turquoise-blue waters of the Caribbean Sea. The Sound and Light show at
Chichen Itza illuminated the majestic and glorious pyramid in brilliant
reverence, spraying it with a mixture of dazzling colourful hues of iridescent
light and entrancing all those who came. During the early hours of the evening,
while a narrator recounted the grand and interesting history of these
magnificent archaeological structures, I watched, mesmerised with awe, as nature
put on its own illuminating show for our benefit, with lightning splitting the
skies immediately behind the pyramid and thereby doubling the superb effect of
this enlightening demonstration.During their evolution these temples were often expanded.
When a new ruler came to the throne he would order another more grandiose temple
to be built over the previous one. This was clearly evident when climbing up the
steps of the tunnel underneath the main temple of Chichen Itza. These steps
belonged to the previous temple which was underneath the main one. The Temple
Major of Mexico City, located on El Zocalo, the central plaza around which the
entire city is built, clearly demonstrates the stages of its evolution.
Destroyed by the conquistadors, much of their stonework being used to rebuild a
cathedral and various other buildings, the temple remained hidden for hundreds
of years until in 1968, when labourers constructing the Metro found part of the
ruins..jpg)
From Yucatan I drove to Belize which proved to be an
interesting contrast to the rest of Latin America. Formerly known as British
Honduras and having recently received its independence from the British, this
country, nevertheless retains a sense of colonialism. This land, located in the
tropics, was taken by the British during the colonisation period of the
Caribbean in the 1600s and 1700s. Thousands of black African slaves were brought
over from Africa to cut down the hardwoods found in the forests and to grow
sugar cane on the cleared land. Today the majority of the population is black.
Belize City, located where the river joins the bay, served as the principal port
for the entire area. It still retains its characteristic wooden architecture,
with brightly painted bungalows in disrepair at the water's edge. Swaying palms
and balmy tropical evenings enhance the seedy atmosphere of the old town. The
old fishermen's marketplace, located underneath a rusting iron roof alongside
the old iron bridge, pervades a sense of trade based on bygone times as
fishermen hawk their catches directly from their boats moored at the wharf.
These colourful old wooden fishing smacks loaded with fish, some moored at the
quays while others anchored nearby, provided a unique artists setting to this
pleasant old-world environment. From this river small boats take people out to
the beautiful tropical islands of the coral reefs located just off the coast of
Belize. I spent Christmas on a tranquil Caribbean Island called Caye Caulker.
The azure-blue seas of the Caribbean never ceases to amaze me. Scuba diving
amongst the colourful corals teeming with an incredible variety of
multi-coloured fishes of different shapes is another highlight not to be missed
here.While travelling around Mexico I met a Mexican lady, named
Monica, who was eventually to accompany me around Europe, and some time later
was to become my wife! When we first met I was visiting one of the last
remaining beaches for budget travellers in Mexico, Zipolite, near Puerto Angel
in the province of Oaxaca. Travellers come to relax and enjoy this tranquil
Mexican beach where fishermen hawk their trade and attractive little cabanas
face the Pacific Ocean rollers. Typical Mexican restaurants were dotted along
the beach providing cheap food for the travellers who come from Europe and North
and South America. I arrived on New Years Eve hoping to find conversation with
some English speaking 'gringos', after having spoken 'broken Spanish' for
several months..jpg)
Instead, on New Years Day I met Monica, who I found relaxing
on the beach and luxuriating in its pleasantly characteristic warmth. We spoke,
both in English and Spanish, and an immediate attachment was felt between us
which eventually led to much more!! However, as she had to return to Mexico City
that same afternoon, we had little time to be acquainted with one another. We
decided to meet again in Mexico City, when I too would return there to continue
some modelling work that had been arranged for me some weeks earlier. In Mexico
City, therefore, we met yet again and had an enjoyably pleasant time getting to
know each other some more. After some days, however, I finally received all my
outstanding payments from the model agency and was therefore free to leave the
city and continue on my travels which I intended to do. Monica was studying
psychology at university, but had expressed a desire to travel through Europe
when she graduated the following year. During my journey I occasionally sent her
a postcard to which she would reply by sending a letter to my home address in
Australia. I finally received this mail from her one year later, when I returned
to São Paulo at the end of my journey throughout South America. By this time I
also knew that I had a ship's passage to Europe and consequently, I was able to
invite her along to accompany me through Europe. More of that later!.jpg)
Guatemala was another fascinating country with many
indigenous people still living unaffected by modern civilisation except for the
aggression of the government which subjects these people to humiliating attacks
by the army. Just after I visited a lovely local Indian village named Santiago
de Atitlan, located on the edge of Lake Atitlan, a massacre occurred there
killing many Indians.
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Watching these people going about their daily chores,
washing clothes at the lakes edge in the traditional way, weaving rugs on
hand-made looms and fishing from wooden canoes, one wonders what they have done
to deserve this aggression.
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Also situated on Lake Atitlan was the interesting
town of Panajachel and three perfect cone-shaped volcanoes, a challenge to the
serious hiker. Nearby also was the Indian town of Chichicastenengo with its
little white church overlooking the central plaza. Many indigenous inhabitants
come to this colourful market town to trade their goods.
Antigua, founded in 1543, was the capital and site of the Audencia (panel of ruling judges) of Central America, until a disastrous earthquake destroyed it in 1773. It can still be experienced as a colonial masterpiece. It's full of massively constructed churches, convents and monasteries, many of which display moderate to severe earthquake damage. In its heyday it was one of the most interesting and attractive cities in the Americas, attracting artists, craftsmen and intellectuals from a wide area. It is a great place to come and stay with local families. Language schools make it the ideal environment from which to study Spanish. Consequently many travellers come here to take advantage of the hospitality while learning this attractive language. Dominating the town is another magnificent volcano about 3000 metres high. I spent a day climbing it to the top, from where superb views over the surrounding countryside can be enjoyed.